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Used is used after all, and were guessing that the lifespan of these bushings was immediately expedited under our ownership thanks to gratuitous, teenager like use of the go pedal.We werent entirely to blame, however.A cursory Interweb search told us we werent alone, and that premature differential mount failure our Jeep has less than 9.K on the clock was pretty common in both WKs and the Commander XKs that share the same platform.Since there seemed to be no shortage of questions online revolving around a solid plan of attack for those replacing these bushings at home, were gonna give you a play by play here.Well show you how we tackled the job and hopefully make it suck a little less for you.Since our local parts store didnt show a listing, we sourced new OEM bushings from our local Jeep dealership to the tune of about 2.Two out of the three bushings are pressed into large, cast in eyelets one above the differential pinion the most haggard of the bunch and the other above the output for the right hand CV shaft.Of course, the only one out of the bunch that was bolt in and easily replaced the front support bushing was the only one that was A OK.Whos to say how long that one would last, though, so we replaced it for good measure.We tackled this job with the benefit of a vehicle lift and our friends at Importech in Conway, New Hampshire, to help document the story, but if you have a basic tool set and a decent idea of how to employ it, youll have success at home with a floor jack and a pair of strategically placed jack stands.The clunking sound that originally indicated that a problem needed fixin was most noticeable when shifting from Park to Reverse or Reverse to Drive.A glance underneath with a buddy depressing the brake and rowing the gears made for a quick diagnosis.Whenever the torque load changed directions, the differential ends of the CV shafts would jump vertically over an inch in either direction.With both knuckles and strut assemblies still attached to the lower control arms, we pulled the top of the knuckles out and away from the vehicle enough so the CV shafts would pull free from the housing.Now youre ready to unbolt the driveshaft from the differential, yank the vent tube, undo the electrical connection up top, and zip out the bolts that run through the three mount bushings arrows.After popping the front wheels off and setting them aside, we gained access to the front driveline by removing the large skidplate bolted to the subframe.You need to fully remove the rear two bolts, but just loosen the front two enough to slide the skidplate forward in its slotted channels and let the washers pass through the holes.You can see where the rubber of the pinion support bushing tore and began parting ways with the steel shell.With a long punch through the center sleeve for leverage, we could tweak the sleeve side to side to the point where it contacted the outer steel shell of the bushing.Not good. If were able to manipulate the bushing this much with a punch, you can imagine the hurtin that 3.Theres no need to completely disassemble your front suspension, unbolt the axles from the unitbearings, or touch the brake hardware to tackle this job.By simply unbolting the upper control arms and outer tie rod ends from the knuckles and the sway bar end links, we freed things up enough to pop the CV shafts out of the differential.The quickest and most effective means of relieving your differential of its spent bushings is with an air hammer wearing a chisel bit.We used the air hammer to bend the lip of the steel shell inward towards the center of the bushing and then pushed the entire bushing out towards the non lip side.One bushing is pressed into a more damage prone aluminum housing, so be sure to take your Machine Gun Kelly hat off when you blast that one out.It took about five minutes per bushing to jackhammer them free of the differential definitely not pretty, but effective.The same goal can be accomplished with a hammer, chisel, and sizeable steel punch, but youll probably wish that you had borrowed your buddys air hammer when through.The front support bushing not pictured simply unbolts from its cast in mount on the finned front differential cover.Since we didnt have any luck tracking down bushings at any of the local parts stores, and there didnt seem to be anything available as an aftermarket upgrade, we were stuck sourcing O.E. M. bushings from the local Jeep dealership.The two pressed in bushings are designed to flex in a certain direction and need to be installed in the same orientation as the ones that came out with the flat of the center sleeve facing up.Your best plan of attack for installing the new pressed in bushings requires a ball joint press.If you dont have one, most parts stores rent them, or you can opt for an el cheapo Harbor Freight unit that weve actually had pretty good luck with.Once all the bushings are in, youre ready to hoist the differential back into place and button everything up the same way it was unbuttoned.
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